Language Immersion, Cultural Awareness and Renewal

I spent the four nights and three days preceding Christmas Eve in Gwo Jan, a blissful community about 45 minutes outside of Port au Prince. It is located near the town of Pernier, particularly known for the Battle of Pernier during the fight for independance. In the days of slavery, this area was probably a refuge for runaways or “marron”. I stayed on the property of N A Sonje Foundation (nasonje.blogspot.com), a non-profit whose mission is to raise and deepen awareness of the rich history of Haiti. They do this in many forms- guided tours, lectures, drama and interactive programming. The primary reason for my stay was to begin studying Kreyol intensively. The pace of my schedule in the first seven weeks of my residency had not really allowed time for me to learn Kreyol. I had patched French phrases together to try to communicate my thoughts, but really had no comprehension or ability in Kreyol. With the seminarians on Christmas vacation, this was the perfect time to have an immersion experience.

Before sharing the details of my experience, you may be interested in learning a little bit about the origin of Kreyol. When the French arrived in Haiti, the original Native American population, under the brutal oppression of the Spanish, had been decimated through suicide, unconscionable labor, cruel punishment and disease. The French travelled to West Africa, captured Africans and brought them back to Haiti to serve as slaves. Kreyol was formed out of the West African dialects and French. Though it has never been declared as the official language, it is truly the common language of Haiti or “Ayiti”.

I had learned of N A Sonje Foundation through a colleague at BuildaBridge. I had been corresponding with Carla for months, inspired by the mission and vision of their work. She showed up at the Diaspora of Hope training and was responsible for Mona joining the team. Following the art camp, the U.S. members of the Diaspora team visited the N A Sonje property. Though a whirlwind tour, we were completely taken by the beauty and tranquility of the land. In addition, we were graced with a mini concert by Carla’s band. Carla plays violin, her husband Ron, Levy, Nja and Mona on guitar and Welele on drums. They write their own music. The message is usually specific to tradition and circumstance in Haiti- very powerful and beautifully composed. I felt as though I had found place where I could learn the truth about Haiti in a retreat-like setting. I knew I would be back.














My immersion experience started on Saturday night at the wedding of the Goddaughter of Carla’s partner, Ari. We then headed up through the hills to Gwo Jan. We had a late supper followed by a band rehearsal. The added treat for me was that Mona’s daughter, Natalie, was also visiting. She laid her head on my lap and fell asleep during practice. After practice, we chatted a bit and then everyone headed off to bed.

The routine for the next three days would be the same- up at 6 a.m., breakfast at 7 a.m.; common phrases, vocabulary and grammar at 7:30 a.m., being joined by young adults from the community- Emmanuel, Williamson and Woodson; 10 a.m.-3 p.m. visiting neighbors and touring the area with Emmanuel, Williamson and Woodson to put Kreyol into use; 3 p.m. lunch; 4-6 p.m. break; and supper and informal personal and cultural discussion with Carla, Ron and, sometimes, Ari. Slowly but surely, I found that some basic questions and responses were coming more easily. My comprehension was definitely improving. It was also really nice to have this work married with a broader understanding of the history and culture of Haiti and new friendships in the community.

One of the most meaningful community visits that we made was to the home of Monavwa, an elder in Gwo Jon. He has been failing for some time and Carla had not had a chance to see him recently. Three generations of the family live together, the newest member of which is a three-month old baby named Kenya. We greeted all the family members in the yard and then proceeded into the house. Monavwa was laying in a bed of crisp, white linens. Though this was the first time that I had met him, it was clear that he was quite frail. He was also having a difficult time breathing. While we were visiting, one of his daughters brought in Kenya. I opened my hands toward her and she willingly passed him to me. What a joy! He was fine until he realized that he had only been partially fed. I took him to his mother so he could finish eating. He fell asleep and she placed him next to his grandfather, in the exact same position. I had stayed outside. When Carla saw how Kenya’s mother placed him, she called me in and asked me to shoot a series of pictures for the family. I was honored to do so. This is only one of a series.

The time passed quickly at N A Sonja, and soon I found myself getting ready to leave. I really didn’t want to go. This was certainly in part because I knew that my return to Port au Prince would be the beginning of two weeks alone and also because I felt as though I had developed both a spiritual and personal connection with the N A Sonje family and the members of the Gwo Jan community. I have been advised by several people to identify a place where I can go and feel I can be completely unfiltered about my experience as a Missioner. Though I have certainly not needed to do that so far, I take comfort in knowing that N A Sonje Foundation provides such a setting.

Merry Christmas!!

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

Fete de Noel a Seminaire de Theologie

The last day of classes before Christmas break at the Seminaire de Theologie was Friday, December 20. Sonley Joseph, a fourth year seminarian, was also defending his thesis that morning. With the students heading home for the Christmas break the next day, and Sonley’s achievement to celebrate, I felt a party was in order! Selfishly, this also allowed me to have one more night with the whole community before they joined their families for the holidays and I was on my own.

At Seminarie de Theologie, each student has a particular assignment or responsibility linked to the school. Wilden, a second year student, serves as the Comisaire, or coordinator of all the food and special functions. We discussed the possibility of a party and he loved the idea. So did the rest of the students. Wilden solicited input from everyone and finalized the plans.

For those who may not know me, Christmas is my favorite time of year. In many ways, it is probably the hardest season for me to be away from my family and the traditions that I hold so dear. Beginning the weekend after Thanksgiving, I begin celebrating Christmas by wearing holiday clothing including earrings, of course, and decorating the house from top to bottom. The decorating is definitely a team effort- I deliver the decorations from the attic and my husband Eric puts everything in its proper place!

So, all in all, this Christmas party was going to help put me in the full Christmas spirit. In addition to planning some simple decorations, I asked the seminarians to wear something red or green. When I learned that no one had red or green clothes, I told them that I would get hats. The initial response was “we are not children”. I chose to ignore them ☺

Beginning Friday morning, Wilden, Reginald (another seminarian), Youlen, Jeanine and I divided the task list and went to work. There were a few hours when everyone attended Sonley’s defense of his thesis-which, by the way, was FABULOUS- and then returned to the work at hand.

There were a couple of final details to address. I searched high and low for red and green paper goods. Not to be found in Port au Prince, at least not where I could venture on foot. I also had not found the Santa hats in the quantity that I needed. I was a little disheartened and decided to visit one last place. I settled for white paper goods and approached the check out line. Lo and behold, on top of the kioske by the register was an entire package of Santa hats! They were not ordinary hats either- they had electrified stars! I had brought a supply of AA batteries from the states, so we were all set.

As I arrived at the Seminary with the last of the needed items, ready to have the students start decorating, I was met by Father Oge. He needed to meet with seminarians for “10 minutes”. As is common in Haitian culture, 10 minutes turned into 45 minutes. By the time the students returned to the dining room, the space was decorated, the table filled with a wonderful buffet of food and all the hats loaded with batteries and in full chasing light mode! Everyone was completely surprised and excited by what they saw. Despite earlier grumblings, they eagerly took a hat. Someone got Father Oge, who opened the festivities with a prayer. This was quickly followed by popping the cork on the champagne and starting the music.

With this, the open space of the common room immediately turned into a dance floor-Compas Cha Cha Cha, Rumba and other native dances. Everyone was dancing for the next two hours. Students who had seemed quiet and reserved transformed into incredibly skilled and intense dancers. Wilden and Michel were probably the biggest surprises of the group. Wilden is usually soft spoken. He spent the evening dancing with every woman at the party and demonstrated the most intricate steps of anyone in the group. Michel, who rarely smiles let alone laughs, completely relaxed. At the beginning of the evening, he did not even want to stand close to women in photographs. As the party continued, he took the initiative to ask women to dance and was beaming from ear to ear.

Some friends of the seminary had been invited to the party. At 9 p.m., Sonley announced that it was time for them to go. Sonley later explained that, though acceptable for the seminarians to invite people from the community to events and have fun, it is also important to know when it is the time to bring the festivities to a close. Sonley felt this was an important reminder to the public that the seminarians, in the absence of the Dean, are able to act with wisdom and good judgment.

By 9:30 p.m. the seminarians began to call it a night and head to their rooms. The evening had really brought the community together and allowed me to get to know the seminarians better. It was also an important reminder that, colored musical lights, candy canes and flashing Santa hats aside, Christmas is really about a family bonded in the love of Christ. That is what Abiade, Jean Fils, Margarette, Marie, Michel, Micheline, Reginald, Sonley, Wilden and Wilkey have become for me. They do not replace my own family. Rather, they are an extension of my family, having joined others that I love in Kenya and elsewhere.

Las Cahobas -A Visit to Sonley’s Hometown

Sonley Joesph, a 4th year student awaiting his ordination and parish assignment, was the first seminarian to invite me to his hometown. This was actually one of the few weekends when I did not have other responsibilities and was free to travel. I was really looking forward to the experience.

A little background on Las Cahobas- it is a town with a population of approximately 40,000 located about two hours from Port au Prince. It is in the Central Department of Haiti, just outside of the town of Mirebalais in the Archdeaconery of Mirebalais. It is also only about two hours from the Dominican Republic. Its economy is agriculturally based. Originally called Ville des Acajou by the French because of the beautiful Acajou trees that filled the region, it was renamed Las Cahobas-representing the same meaning-when the Spanish arrived. A noted figure of the area was Charlemagne Peralte, who led the struggle for independence under the U.S. occupation of Haiti in 1915.

Sonley and I left around noon on Friday with a family who was in Port au Prince with their twin infants for a doctor’s appointment. Unlike my experience with small children in Kenya-my appearance prompting them to cry- these babies seemed intrigued and fascinated by my difference. We played for most of the ride. The ride was pretty smooth with the exception of one stretch of road that was under construction. The completed part of the road was quite impressive and provided a spectacular overlook of the area.

This trip was actually my first excursion outside of Port au Prince. Sonley is one of the Seminarians with whom I have developed a particularly close relationship. This made this weekend all the more special.

We arrived in Las Cahobas around two o’clock. Sonley first took me to the home of his sister Mireille where I met her family. After being introduced to everyone, we were served a wonderful meal of peas with rice, pwa (a puree of peas- considered a “winter” dish in Haiti- which serves as a kind of gravy or topping), broth and meat.

So as not to impose on Sonley’s family, I offered to stay in a guesthouse. After lunch, we walked down to the Hotel and I checked in. We then strolled through town, visiting the center square, the police department and the town bank where Sonley had worked at one time. Along the way, we met many people who knew Sonley and greeted him warmly. When I told him he was like the mayor of the town, he humbly responded, “No, this is my home town. I was a teacher of French. I cared about my students and their parents want to speak with me when they see me”.

We then borrowed Sonley’s uncle’s car to visit some people and places in Las Cahobas. As we got into the car, Sonley’s nephew and two godchildren hopped in as well. Their time with their Uncle/Godfather was precious and they wanted to be with Sonley as much as possible. We first stopped to see Father Milor, Rector of the town’s Episcopal Church, Saint-Esprit. Though we had not called ahead of time, he welcomed us and we have a wonderful conversation about the parish and the great need for Sunday School and youth formational programming. At present, there is no Sunday School in place. Father Milor was excited to learn of my background and eager to have me return and begin to work with lay leaders in interested in serving as volunteers in youth and children’s ministries.

Our next stop was the home of Sonley’s mother, Yrmma. She was very warm and welcoming. As soon as Sonley arrived, children from the block gathered in the house to greet him. I took a picture of the assembly. As always, the children enjoyed seeing their picture instantly.

Next, we visited a beautiful dammed creek with a pool of crystal clear water. It was now dusk and too dark to take pictures. As I gazed up from the water, surrounded by trees. toward a rolling hill with scattered rock, I immediately thought of the Garden of Gesamene (or Jesamane in French). It must have been just such a setting for the Disciples, prompting them to fall asleep in their last hours with Jesus. I could also picture the soldiers coming down the hill into this blissful place to arrest Jesus and take him to trial.

Our final stop was the new hospital, Zanme Lasante (Friend of Health in Creole). It as a lovely, pristine facility. There were two large central wards, one for men and one for women. Those with HIV/AIDS, TB and other infectious diseases were located in separate areas. I was quite impressed

Upon leaving the hospital, we returned to his sister’s house. We sat outside for some time, speaking with people in the community and spending more time with Sonley’s nephew, Rudens, and Goddaughter, Geraldina. During our time together, Geraldina brought Sonley her school papers so that he could see how well she was doing. She was very proud and so was Sonley. Sonley drove me to the hotel around 9:30 a.m.

I had a solid sleep, listening to the music and other community activity into the early hours of the morning. I woke around 6:30 a.m. to the sound of the Saturday market in full progress. Since I did not have to meet Sonley until 8 a.m., I spent some time observing the market from my windows and taking a lot of pictures. One of my favorite images was people and goods entering town on small horses, readying to do busy.

I got dressed for the day, had a quick breakfast and headed to Sonley’s. He had not yet eaten, so I benefited from sharing some of his delicious fish. He had raved about the fish in Las Cahobas. I can now testify that it is exceptional and very different from what we eat in Port au Prince.

We were picked up by Father Milor and travelled to Mirebalais to meet with Father Jean Jeannot Joseph, Rector of St. Pierre Church and Archdeacon of the Mirebalais deaconery. This was, once again, a wonderful exchange of information and ideas on the need for programming for youth and children in the region. Though I have applied for funding for this program that won’t be available until the summer, both Father Milor and Father Jeannot are anxious to get started. We agreed that we would begin some training and piloted programming in January. Sonley told Father Jeeannot about the BuildaBridge art program that we held at St. Vincent’s. He was quite interested in having the same experience for the young people of his community and volunteered to identify some local artists who might be willing to teach.

It was after 1 p.m. when we returned to Las Cohabas. As Father Milor dropped us off, he invited us to his home for supper. We accepted and said we would be there around 4:30 p.m. We had lunch and then walked through town a bit. One of our stops was the town bank where Sonley had, at one time, worked. He was greeted very warmly by everyone as we entered the bank. We spent a little time with the Bank Manager and President, including discussion of ways that the bank supports community-based initiatives, and then headed back to Sonley’s Aunt’s house.

Time passed quickly and soon we headed to Father Milor’s house for supper. Contrary to Haitian tradition, Father Milor had had a huge meal prepared for us. I suspect it was out of respect for my traditions. We had a wonderful evening together and then walked home. Sonley had been asked to preach at church the next morning, so I left him early to let him prepare and get a good night’s sleep.

My routine was the same on Sunday morning, though this time I was attracted by a group of boys playing soccer in the street. Again, I watched for a while and took a number of pictures. I then got ready, had breakfast and headed to pick up Sonley. Mothers are the same worldwide- when I arrived Sonley’s mother was preparing breakfast, and although close to the time of our departure, insisted that he eat. We ate together and then walked to Church.

It was a wonderful service with lots of children in the congregation, including a little baby that I was able to hold. Sonley gave a great sermon about John the Baptist and how he, with utmost humility, prepared the way for Jesus.

After church, we returned to Sonley’s Aunt’s house and, you guessed it, ate lunch. We then boarded a public van to head back to Port au Prince. This mode of transportation was very reminiscent of my travels in Kenya on Matatus- how many people (and animals) can you pack into a vehicle! It garners a real sense of community! We were back in Port au Prince city limits by 2 p.m. From the place where the van dropped us off, we took a small Tap Tap (a very colorful truck with a converted bed for seating) and then a taxi. Sonley gave me very little notice as we moved from one mode of transportation to another, adding to the humor of the situation.

The taxi dropped us off outside the Seminary gates. As I stood on the sidewalk with Sonley to say thank you and goodbye, I felt a little sad. It had been a wonderful weekend and it passed all too quickly. However, I know that this is the first of many adventures that I will share with the Seminarians and others during my year in Haiti. I was just glad that the first could be with Sonley.

Your Wish Is My Command, Ali Bove- A Day In The Life

Well, I am in my seventh week of residency in Port au Prince, Haiti and I am just getting around to the first request that was made by Ali Bove, a member of my Missioner Support and Advisory Team- to share a typical day here, including photographs of where I live and the places I go. One of the reasons this has been difficult is that each day has been somewhat different since I arrived. There is, nevertheless, a certain rhythm and routine that frames each day. So, here we go!









Days begin early at the Seminaire de Theologie and in Haiti. Marie, Margarette and I share one bathroom, so getting ready starts at 5-5:30 a.m. We have Morning Prayer Monday, Tuesday and Thursday and Eucharist on Wednesday and Friday at 7 a.m. This is followed by breakfast at 8 a.m. Breakfast consists of beans and rice or potatoes and pieces of meat or fish in a broth. Occasionally, we have spaghetti. Grace is said before every meal. Meals are served family style. No one begins to eat until everyone has served themselves. Once everyone has finished, a blessing is said and all head off to classes. If I do not have an appointment or some other commitment. I usually go back to my apartment and work. There is a desk in the apartment where I have my computer, printer etc.

Lunch is served around 1 p.m. The meal is almost identical to what is served for breakfast. After lunch, everyone disperses and returns to the responsibilities of the day.

Wednesdays are different in a number of ways. There is a Eucharist in the morning and at noon. I teach English to 6 seminarians who are at the intermediate level 10 a.m.-12 p.m. Since their mastery of the language is better, there is fairly lively conversation in the class and a certain amount of humorous questions and laughter- much like my Confirmation classes at Trinity. At the conclusion of class, we move to the Chapel for the mid-day Eucharist. Students from the College de St. Pierre, a university located behind the Seminary, are invited to the mid-day service. Following the Eucharist, any students who attended join us for a snack and ask the seminarians any questions that they wish. Though I cannot always follow everything that is said (it is all in French or Creole), I usually can grasp the overall discussion.

Evening prayer occurs at 6:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday. Following evening prayer a light meal is provided. Typically it includes a kind of porridge called bouillie. It is light brown in color and quite sweet. Often, there is also peanut butter and jelly, or hot dogs, fried potatoes and plantains.

The evenings often include watching soccer and the evening soap opera “Marina”. Everyone, male and female are glued to the nightly episodes of “Marina”. On Monday and Thursday evenings, 8-10 p.m., I teach English to four of the seminarians who represent the beginner group. Each week I provide them with a written assignment. Topics have included writing their autobiography and call to the priesthood; a detailed description of a place that they most want to visit in the world; and their favorite Christmas tradition. Class time is spent reading their written assignment out loud and asking each other questions. In addition, some time is spent introducing and reviewing everyday vocabulary, such as colors, pieces of furniture, articles of clothing etc.

After evening prayer and supper, I usually return to my apartment where I work on grant proposals, e-mails and even letter writing. My residency in Haiti has taken me back to the old fashioned tradition of letter and post card writing. It has been kind of nice to send a more personal note from time to time. I also take time to read books about Haiti. In fact, I am thinking of posting some titles on my blog and sharing my personal reviews.

On the weekends, most of the Seminarians head off to field work. This essentially leaves me alone. I use some of this time to go to the grocery store (Five Star or Piyay), run errands and do laundry. I also continue some of the same work that I do during the week. So far, I have worshipped at Trinite Cathedral each Sunday.



My early weeks in Haiti were pretty programmed- preparation for and actual visit by the Presiding Bishop, Haiti Connection conference and the Diaspora of Hope art camp. Now I find myself spending a lot of time researching and writing grants and pursuing potential partnerships for projects of the Diocese, especially in education. To provide myself with an outlet from this sedentary work, I am beginning to explore some volunteer opportunities. My first is going to be with the Lamp Clinic in Cite Soleil. This clinic is funded through a Philadelphia based non-profit called the Lamp Foundation of Haiti. Occasional participation in such initiatives allow me to feel as if I am engaged in vital ministry while also doing important work for the Diocese in growing funding streams and developing sustainable programming.

This Friday I will begin the first of three four-day language immersion sessions. To date, I have hobbled along with my Junior High-Senior High French. I really need to strengthen my ability in French and begin to grasp Creole. Without improving my communication skills, my work in Haiti is hampered. I have never been one who studies effectively on an independent basis. I am looking forward to an intensive and environmental method of instruction.

I hope this has given you a glimpse into my daily life in Haiti. Please feel free to post comments and ask questions, especially Ali! I will do my best to respond.

An Advent Devotional

One of the many ways that we can stay connected during this Advent season is through virtual devotionals. One of the U.S. participants in the Diaspora of Hope art camp in Haiti sent me the link below. This on-line devotional is part of a collaborative effort that includes Youth Ministries of the National Episcopal Church, the Youth & Young Adult Ministries of the Presbyterian Church USA and the Congregational Life office of the Cooperative Baptist Fellowship. I experience the devotional series the last few nights and found them to be both meaningful and centering. Enjoy!

http://www.followingthestar.org

A Week of Thanks

During the week of November 25, I was part of a group of American and Haitian artists and volunteers who facilitated an art camp called Diaspora of Hope Artists on Call at St. Vincent School for the Handicapped. This event, coordinated through BuildaBridge-a non-profit organization based in Germantown, Pennsylvania, that brings hope and healing through the arts to challenged communities locally and internationally- had been in the planning stages for many months. The original site was to be Trinite Music School, an academic institution of the Diocese of Haiti renowned for its training of aspiring musicians. The day before the first of the American members of the team were scheduled to arrive, a change of venue was necessary. With the blessing and approval of the Diocese of Haiti, St. Vincent School for the Handicapped opened its doors to the program.

The team was incredibly understanding of the last minute change and actually excited about working with the children of St. Vincent. In truth, however, no one on the team had any formal training in working with children with physical challenges. This, coupled with a language barrier both with in the leadership team and the children, made for an unusual set of circumstances. In addition, most of the training materials generated by BuildaBridge had not been translated into French and Creole. This meant that the American members of the team had to do their best to communicate the mission and vision of the program as translators then tried to convey the meaning. All in all, it was a step of faith for all of us!

Each day of the camp brought more synergy among the leaders and the children. We became a family within a family. Thursday was probably the most transformative day of the week. Everyone seemed to grasp the routine and understand the expectations. We concluded that day’s program feeling very ready for Friday’s final performance.

There were many memorable moments to the week. Let me share some of my favorites: the simultaneous singing with voices and sign language- it was true poetry; the day that one of the Haitian musicians came in with a new song and the Haitian drama instructor with a second play, both inspired through the experience; Dieumain Cloristin, a young woman born without arms, dancing the Compas and performing in the dramas; a student with MS and a guitar slung on her back having a star role in the drama “She Can Be President”; the deep relationships fostered among the leadership team and the tremendous sacrifice of the Haitian artists, some of whom travelled two hours each way to participate; the physical connectiveness with the children as the blind familiarized themselves with you by touching your body or your face and those who were deaf and mute tapping or grabbing you to get your attention; and the flock of students who surrounded Mona, the drama teacher, to ask for guitar lessons. And, in keeping with the week, Mona is excited and willing to provide the lessons. So, we are now on a campaign for guitars!

For more information on BuildaBridge, the sponsoring organization, and all three Diaspora of Hope locations-Guatemala, Haiti and Kenya- go to http://diasporaofhope.blogspot.com.